Skip to main content

Tastes Like Chicken?!

For me, Tamales remind me of Christmas in California, my family is not from Mexico, but for a good part of my life I have lived in areas that were if not a majority Mexican then pretty close, and Tamales are a decidedly Christmas fare in these areas, the basic tradition as I remember it was for all the women in the family to be in the kitchen making huge mounds of Tamales on Christmas Eve, (while all the men drank until they passed out).

Tamales are a labor intensive food, you boil the husks, prepare the filling, and take mounds of wet masa and form it into Tamales, then wrap the corn husks around the filled masa and steam them, sound easy? my guess is its not, but really I cant say for sure, the one and only time I was lucky enough to be invited to one of these fetes I was forced to display my Machismo and Bravado with the Men by drinking way to much and passing out in the yard. (freshly made Tamales do make an excellent hangover food that I can say for sure)

there are so many types of tamales, there are sweet corn, pineapple, queso, pork, chicken, you name it, and every single one seems to explode with flavor when you bite into it, they are a simple food, and when you bite into your first one you are hooked, your teeth easily cut through the soft masa, and when the filling hits your tongue its a little taste of heaven.

Oaxaca, Mexico, its an amazing state, so much beauty and such a laid back atmosphere, I really love it here, when I leave my house there are mangoes everywhere, just pick one up off te ground and eat around the birds bites and breakfast is ready, so as I sit eating my mango, I spy the nephew of the owners of the little beach shack we stayed at leave the palapa armed with a slingshot, its sort of odd, but there are lots of odd things happening down here (like people eating fried grasshoppers) anyways he leaves with a slingshot and returns less than a mango later carrying two very large, very dead iguanas by the tail.

If you know anything about me you know I am curious about nearly everything (I always have a million questions about the most unimportant things)so I ask how they are prepared and he says en Caldo (soup) it sounds really good to me and I want to try it, so there I sit a few minutes later, washing my clothes and out to the cistern comes the Jefa (boss), she quickly begins to gut the iguanas and I ask if I can watch, she warns me of blood, and I tell her its OK I am brave (what possesses me to stare mesmerized at an indigenous woman deftly butchering Iguanas I do not know) what I do know is that I really want to taste that soup. Unfortunately for me an invitation never materializes, but in the back of my head somewhere I make a mental note to try these guys (iguanas) at my earliest opportunity (whenever that may be).

If we fast forward a couple days I am sitting in a great little Cafe in the town of Mazunte Oaxaca MXI have chosen to stop here and stay a month or two, and Edward has connected with friends from Tadousac Quebec, and a new friend from Copenhagen Denmark, two of these folks happen to be restauranteurs (all of us share a passion for food of all types), as we all eat lasagna made with fresh pasta we talk of local flavors in the Mexican style, the restauranteurs are still a little hung over from their first Mezcal experience (which I thankfully missed out on) we talk of Grasshoppers, Iguanas and Mezcal, and we all decide that our next chance we are ready to try Iguana (tastes like chicken?!)

We finish our meal and say our goodbyes, they are headed back to the cold of Canada, and I am sleeping in my new house for the first night, Ed and Tini are exploring their new friendship, the world is right tonight.

I sleep well, when I wake I do my dailys, check my e mail, eat something and head for the beach, the water could not be better, the sun is scorching, the water is cool and refreshing, I float solo, letting the gentle currents cleanse my soul, I am not sure I could be much more content, I swim and float alone for an hour or so, then I am joined by some of my new friends, we float happily together and appreciate all the gifts we receive, (I for one am not adept enough at mathematics to count all my blessings), lets just settle for life is good! as the tide begins to rise its time for me to get back on the beach and move my chair so the sea does not swallow it whole.

We are 3 as we head up the beach, Nzingha (a captivating well travelled african goddess who’s smile is totally mesmerizing, she is here writing a novel) (an industrial engineer from France who is great fun and speaks spanish faster than a local) and I we make our way to where our new friend Tini (or danish goddess if you prefer) is sunning herself, as usual I am lucky, I am on an amazing beach, accompanied by 3 new friends, we sit laughing and talking music, there are vendors of all types, hammocks, jewelry, clothes, a little of everything, we respectfully decline all offers until I spot the Tamale vendors, the two women approach us offering tamales of all sorts for 5 pesos (less than 50 cents) they have pina (pineapple) dulce (sweet corn) queso (cheese) pollo (chicken) and Iguana, I think to myself (excellent, I can be brave, Tamales are filled with a soft center, the meat inside is generally stewed, so I wont have to face my fears of eating things that look like living things yet again), at first I am the only taker, evidently no one is feeling brave today(despite my words of “encouragement”), Tini declines, then decides to order one so we can discuss the experience, Nzinga is discussing her first experience with Iguana in great detail, talking of how when she tried it she really enjoyed it without knowing what it was, it was fried and she believed it to be fish (until she pulled an obvious shoulder joint from her mouth) when I open my husk, I see what appears to be any one of the many hundreds of tamales I have eaten in my life, I am feeling brave, I am trying something strange, something new (that I am told is delicious), something that just may become a new favorite food (like caribbean fish head soup). So in my hand I hold the Tamale and before I can bring it to my mouth a picture of a prehistoric looking Iguana flashes through my head (not good) truthfully sometimes chicken even freaks me out (pull it together man you have two beautiful women and a man in your company, dont be such a wuss) I clear the thoughts from my head and tentatively have a little nibble off the side (not bad, certainly not amazing and delicious, but not all bad) I am feeling OK about this, I decide that a nibble is not really the way to go and get ready for a big bite, about that time I look down and notice that in fact the dark substance oozing out of my first nibble is covered with scales (I see this and think about my friend Randy cooking up crispy salmon skin, which I LOVE) so here goes, my hand brings the tamale to my lips, now its all mind over matter, I imagine the flavorful salmon skin, crispy and crunchy, an explosion of taste in my mouth, my teeth sink into the soft corn, and into the dark skin ( no gagging, bite down) about that time I hear (and feel) the sickening crunch of tiny bones in my mouth and sorta slimy scaly skin on my tongue (this aint no chicken wing, and its certainly not crunchy salmon skin) what is in my mouth is a slimy, mostly flavorless bit o nasty, my bravado is gone, I am silently gagging, wondering how mortified I will actually feel if Tini enjoys hers, so I look up to see this beautiful blonde woman in her late twenties, or possibly early thirties wearing a black bikini, she is fit, she fills the bikini perfectly, her smile is contagious, she is smart, fun and laughs easily! Her classic beauty turns heads on the beach, she has taken a small bite, and before I can think (its hard to think when you are dry heaving) I look down at her tamale and say something like OMG are those feet? OK so now its her turn, she is kicking her legs trying to get her gag reflex under control, it looks something like the exaggerated gross out that you so often see with teenage kids, but I know this is no exaggeration, (I would have kicked my feet if it was possible), no this is nasty, I set it into motion, and now I have elevated it to the next level, I wonder if we are about to have barf o rama, me, i am lucky I am not covered in my own vomit, we try and calm down and are successful, no one has blown chunks, now its all about disposing of the evidence before the tamale vendors get back, luckily a beautiful brown dog shows up and is happy to eat my Tamale, (I saved Tinis for photos). We need liquid refreshment, gotta get that taste out of our mouths so we head for the palapa to try another new taste sensation, a Michelada (something that vaguely resembles a red beer or clamato, but is basically bad beer made hot with picante, whe it hits my stomache I secretly vow revenge on Nzingha, (she recommended the drink and spoke fondly of eating iguana and must be stopped before she strikes again) after trying unsuccessfully to pass my Michelada off onto a newly arrived Edward, I order a lemonade, and think better thoughts....

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Welcome Home

I am back in the US, its not by choice I assure you, but when the universe speaks, all we can do is listen, then act accordingly, its no problem to resist, (as long as you enjoy a steady rain of blows falling on you), and its been my experience that the universe can pack a wallop when you choose a course different than the one she has plotted for you. So after attempting (yet again) to follow my own agenda (as a replacement for whatever the universe seems to have in mind for me) I relented after much deliberation and pointed myself north, stashing the trailer and magic carpet temporarily at my new friend Rolando’s. I had a last order of Tostados at Antojitos and drove north against a virtual gale force wind (the final blow to strengthen my resolve I assume) The wind made sure I took it easy and had plenty of time to decipher exactly what was missing from my equation, my list ended up something like this: 4 wheel drive truck (or no magic carpet) Laptop Computer (or no blogging) Sell Boa

La Chingadera heads for home

Its not often in a persons life that an opportunity arises to drive a 1973 Volkswagen thing from California to Costa Rica and get paid for it. For me the call came in July of 2007, I had more or less forgotten that I had even put the car up for sale, and I was sitting at my sisters farm in beaver creek Oregon when it did come, I don't remember the exact words that were spoken, but it went something like this; I want to buy your car, will you take 8000 for it? would you be interested in delivering it to Costa? Yes seemed like the right answer at the time so thats what I said. Between monsoons, hurricanes, and missed connections, some months passed before we had all the details worked out, agreed on a plan of action, and money and titles changed hands, but somewhere near Thanksgiving of 07 I found myself planning the details for the Sunday drive of a lifetime. Trying to get out of the country was not the simplest task for me, since having fought a bout with cancer a couple of years

Somewhere north of La Paz

When one decides to drive to a remote beach deep in the baja there are may things one must first consider, such as; Is there air in the spare? Do we have enough water? How about beer, should we grab some? How much gas do we have? Tires are solid. Will there be food? Quanto Kilometros to la playa? Donde es la calle de costa. Many questions, yes many questions indeed. For me I prefer to do a cursory map check (it’s usually the tiny squiggle I cant even see) Then turn to mi amigo Eduardo and ask aya or aqui? So tonight 60 km of crushing dirt roads later it is nearing sunset and we sit on el Pacifico, our kidneys bashed, the Toyota is hot, the waves crashing on la mar, we are in a small valley that drains onto the beach, sunset is a golden glow of liquid light, we are semi stuck in deep sand but no matter, there are many whales spouting off shore and its absolutely incredible its un perfecto campo (except for maybe the deep sand and low charge on the power chair that effectively leaves me